Why You Need an Air Conditioner Tune-up

Why You Need an Air Conditioner Tune-up

It is almost springtime again in Raleigh North Carolina and people will soon be starting to turn on their air conditioners for the first time. Most air conditioners have been sitting idle through the winter and probably have not been checked for several months. Through the winter, the condensing units have been exposed to adverse weather conditions, clumsy landscapers, dust and pollen, dirt from construction sites, road salts from the traffic, dirty air filters, and much more. All these environmental conditions have a significant impact on the operation and life of your equipment.York Heat Pumps

The #1 cause for air conditioner failures is compressor burn out. All the dirt, pollen, dust, leaves, and landscaping mulch can build up on the outside coils and cause the compressor to overheat. When a compressor operates at elevated temperatures, the oils inside begin to breakdown and stop lubricating the compressor parts. Then the friction build up elevates the temperatures even more and soon your compressor will stop functioning.

It is Time for Your Air Conditioner Tune-up Today

Alexander Heating and Air Conditioning offers our Spring Tune-up services that will your coils, check all your components that wear out with age, and notify you if you need any R-22 added. Our Tune-up will give you the peace of mind that your system is in the best shape possible to prepare for the upcoming summer. Don’t wait for your system to breakdown during the busiest part of the season. And during the summer months, most companies are backed up with calls and will cause you to wait several days for a repair. Don’t be stuck without your air conditioning this summer. Call us today.



2 thoughts on “Why You Need an Air Conditioner Tune-up”

  1. Hello, I have a fairly new unit (3 years) and air handler sweats on the side and where it meets the coil box. Also the drain pipe sweats alot. Also one of the duct lays on the air handler and it sweats on the air handler as well.

    It has been this way ever since installation and I was told it is okay from the installer. Lately I smell musty from return and begin thinking I have some issues. I never thought air handler should sweat to begin with. I added insulation on the side and I think it stopped or hidden now for the sides. Still significant water comes down and drain pan always has water unless weather hits 95 or 100 ishikawa. At that point,I think water evaporates fast.

    I have five ducts coming from the air handler. 2 of them are almost closed to feed more air to one of the duct that deliver air to two rooms. The rooms a hotter than the rest of the area about 3 degrees than living area or 6 degree than a master room when sun us up. When the unit was installed, master got hotter than other area and they moved two duct to the end of the air handler. Now master is 3 degree colder than living or 6 degree colder than two hot rooms. I wish I can show you a pic.

    I am not sure if there is air flow issue or it is really normal or just bad installation. I hope to get your insight.


    1. My first thought is that no, it should not be sweating. But here are some things to tell your HVAC guy to check: 1) is the air handler level, 2) is the drain clogged, 3) is the drain pan cracked, 4) is it low on refrigerant, 5) is the blower set too high and blowing the condensation off the coil and into the frame and ducts.

      Those questions address the sweating of the air handler and ducts.

      The sweating of the drain is normal. However, in some states, it is now code to insulate the drain line for “Protection of structures”. This code can be found in the international mechanical code, your state specific adaptation of the mechanical code, or your local ETJ requirements. It will vary from state to state and may not be required in some areas.

      I think you also may be creating the sweating problem because you admit to shutting two ducts down. This is a big no-no. The system is sized and designed for a specific amount of air flow across the coil. Shutting down that airflow without some means of diversion can cause the coil to get too cold and freeze up. I went to one two weeks ago having this very issue. Let the air go to the other rooms so that you allow more warm air to contact the coil and keep its temperature above freezing. The colder the coil, the more sweating you will have on the equipment. What you need to investigate is increasing the size of the duct to the room that is hotter. Thus allowing more cold air to flow to that space. Other options include adding a return to that space to increase total air circulation in the space. You could also add a zone system to the unit to address the hot areas. A properly installed zone system will have a DATS sensor and a by-pass loop to drain off the excess air flow so that you don’t end up with a frozen coil.

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